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Ruth Casaletto, pharmacist and founder of Chemist & Co Skin Clinic, writes about Acne and Rosacea breakouts with skincare routines and links at the end of this article to readily available products that help alleviate these conditions.


Are those breakouts on your skin, Acne or Rosacea?


Both Acne and Rosacea can cause breakouts on the face. Confusion between the two is common, as one is often mistaken for the other. This can lead to ineffective treatment. Here's how to know which one you have.


Acne


Acne usually starts with the tiny hair follicles on your skin becoming clogged with dead skin and natural face oils, leading to blackheads (open clogged pores) or whiteheads (closed clogged pores). These can then develop into spots. These spots can be papules (small red bumps) or pustules (papules with pus at the tips). Acne can be present on the face, chest, shoulders and back.


If you experience painful lumps and cysts under your skin, it is important that you speak to your doctor, as antibiotics might be necessary to clear up the infection.


Example of Acne

Rosacea


Rosacea can flare up from sun exposure, heat, alcohol, stress, caffeine, and spicy foods. It usually involves intense skin reddening due to more prominent blood vessels and does not typically present with black or whiteheads. Sometimes, antibiotics are required to treat a persistent infection.

Example of Rosacea

How does Azelaic Acid work?


Azelaic acid is beneficial for its anti-inflammatory properties in rosacea. Skin in rosacea patients tends to be very sensitive and can sting, so prescribing guidelines recommend 15% strength. Research has shown that 15% is effective in patients with mild-to-moderate rosacea breakouts without being too harsh. Some preparations have added ingredients like antioxidants, calming aloe vera and colloidal oats that help reduce irritation.


In Acne patients, 20% Azelaic acid within products is most effective. It penetrates the skin and breaks up blackheads and whiteheads. Azelaic acid also kills the bacteria known as P. acne, which helps cause inflammation and pus formation in acne. Ingredients like squalene and glycerine are sometimes added to preparations to make it less drying.


How to Use Azelaic Acid


It is very important to prepare the skin before applying azelaic acid. This allows the treatment to penetrate the skin much better for more effective results.


Although they look similar, acne and rosacea skin require different skincare routines.


In acne, the main aim is to reduce the amount of black and whiteheads and stop the more inflamed spots from developing.


In rosacea, the main aim is to calm and soothe the skin and make the skin barrier as efficient as possible.


We have prepared a simple Skincare Routine with readily available products, containing the right ingredients for both Acne and rosacea skin. If you would like your very own skincare plan, get in touch!

Skincare Routine Steps

Acne Skincare

Rosacea Skincare

​1. Cleanse the skin using a mild cleanser. Use morning & night.

​2. Apply your moisturiser. Use morning & night.

​3. Apply a thin layer of Azelaic Acid only on the areas of breakouts. Use morning & night.

​4. ALWAYS wear a 50+ SPF in the morning (even if your moisturiser contains an SPF). Use every morning.

Starting Tips:

  • Use regularly for a minimum of 12 weeks to see benefits.

  • If you have sensitive skin, test a patch first.

  • Start gently using it once at night every other day, then gradually increase to using it twice daily.


Cautions:

  • Avoid contact of topical azelaic acid with the eyes, mouth, and mucous membranes.

  • Do not use it in pregnancy or breastfeeding.


Not quite sure?


Visit our website:


Self-Care:


If you feel your skin condition is affecting your mental health, speak to your doctor or click on this link, where help is available. https://www.changingfaces.breakoutsbreakoutsorg.uk

 

About the Author:


Ruth is an experienced pharmacist working within GP practices on the Wirral in the UK.


Ruth developed an interest in dermatology in her teenage years after struggling with acne herself. Ruth uses her pharmaceutical knowledge to source ingredients within products and technologies that are clinically evidenced to work.

Unfortunately, mainstream medical care does not routinely offer a holistic approach to skin management. At Chemist & Co Clinic, we discuss nutrition, skincare, lifestyle, and technology with our clients while working alongside any medical treatment your doctor or dermatologist prescribes.

 

Disclosure:

This post contains affiliate links, which means we may earn a commission if you click on one of the product links and make a purchase. We only recommend products that we have researched based on our professional experience and scientific knowledge.






Acne can affect a person’s emotional health and well-being by making them feel less confident and more self-conscious around others, causing frustration and embarrassment. Statistically, women are more prone to acne than men – particularly during puberty and pregnancy.

There are multiple options for treating acne and reducing the appearance of scars, including natural and specialised skincare, supplements, laser treatments, phototherapy and prescription medication.


What are the different types of acne scarring?

There are three main types of acne, each requiring a different treatment approach.


Atrophic scars


These scars are small indentations on the skin. They have the following variations:

  • Icepick scars are small scars that look like pinpricks.

  • Boxcar scars have larger indentations with transparent edges.

  • Rolling scars have unclear edges giving the skin a rolling or undulating appearance.

This scarring occurs when the skin does not make enough fibroblasts in the healing process. Fibroblasts are skin cells crucial for wound healing and collagen production.


Hypertrophic scars


These occur when the skin makes too many fibroblasts while healing an acne spot, causing a raised scar.

Keloid scars


These are similar to hypertrophic scars, but their edges are usually thicker, and their colour is darker and redder than the rest of the skin. They often itch or hurt.


To lessen the impact of acne scarring at home, try the following techniques:


Natural Remedies


Some remedies may cause a worsening of symptoms or other problems, so people should only use them with caution.


Home remedies that people have traditionally used to treat acne scars include:

  • Black seed oil may help with skin pigmentation.

  • Rosehip oil may help reduce discolouration in postsurgical scars.

  • Aloe vera, combined with manuka honey, may help scar-free healing of wounds.


Over-the-counter remedies


Over-the-counter remedies containing the following ingredients may help reduce the appearance of acne scars. However, be aware that over-the-counter creams and lotions are unlikely to remove or flatten a raised scar completely.

Salicylic acid

Salicylic acid is an oil-soluble BHA. It is a naturally occurring compound often used as the primary ingredient in acne skin care products. It helps clear dirt, skin cells, and other pore debris to prevent acne.


Some people might experience redness, dryness, and irritation on the face. You should always follow a product’s instructions to avoid these potential problems. Before using it over a larger area, we recommend you do a patch test on a small skin area to confirm that you are not sensitive to the active ingredient.

Retinoids


Topical retinoids may improve acne scars caused by inflammation, reduce the size of acne lesions, speed up the production of new cells and lighten the appearance of hyperpigmented acne scars.


People using retinoids for acne or scar treatment should wear sunscreen outdoors because the retinoids make the skin sensitive to the sun.

Alpha hydroxy acids


Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are water-soluble acids made from fruits. They are popular in peels and toners as they help remove the top layer of skin, causing dead skin cells to fall off quicker and reveal new skin. Acne sufferers often use AHAs to reduce the look of inflammation and scarring.

Most doctors and skincare companies recommend starting with a low concentration of acids and slowly increasing it to the highest level the skin can tolerate. This allows the skin to acclimate to the new chemicals and reduces side effects, like swelling, burning, and itching. Always follow the product’s instructions.


Lactic acid


Lactic acid is a type of AHA manufactured from milk lactose, not fruit. It removes dead skin cells, reduces the appearance of scars, and smoothens the skin. Lactic acid peels may also help lighten dark scar tissue and should be tested on a small skin patch before use.


Silicone


Medical-grade silicone reduces redness and inflammation and disrupts the molecular processes involved in hypertrophic and keloid scar formations. In addition, silicone helps the skin to shrink excess collagen and repair broken blood vessels.

Injections


Skin specialists can inject a corticosteroid solution directly into a hypertrophic scar or keloid, which may help reduce its size. Steroids disrupt collagen fibres, reducing the amount of scar tissue beneath the skin. Steroids are also anti-inflammatory agents and reduce swelling, inflammation and itching.

Microneedling

Microneedling is the process of pushing tiny needles into the skin surrounding a scar. The body responds by making more collagen, filling the scar and smoothing the skin. This may reduce the appearance of atrophic acne scars. Manual micro-needling punctures microscopic holes into the skin epidermis, enabling active skincare products to penetrate deeper into the epidermis for enhanced effects.



Laser treatment

Fractional Laser targets minute skin sections with laser light, creating microscopic holes in the topmost layers of the skin. As a result, the skin looks tighter due to immediate collagen shrinkage and is followed by long-term stimulation of fibroblasts, which will produce new collagen over the following months. In addition, the surrounding, non-affected areas of skin facilitate faster healing, aiding the body’s natural recovery process and giving dramatic results without the significant downtime associated with traditional ablative laser procedures.


Surgery

If other treatments do not help lessen acne scars, a doctor can use a scalpel to remove them. However, surgery alone may not be enough to solve the problem, and a doctor might recommend further treatment.


Light Therapy


Light therapy is highly effective for acne scars and other types of scarring. Some of the benefits of light therapy include:

  • The treatments are safe.

  • The treatments are pain-free.

  • They are safe for all skin types.

  • They are safe for all colours of skin.

  • They can be used in conjunction with other therapies.

  • They work on all kinds of scars.


Book a free consultation with Ruth, the lead healthcare professional

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Email: hello@chemistandco.com

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